09
Feb 10

Fuschia Dunlop, The Gourmet Farmer
& Aquaculture

Some of my picks from my overblown list of web reads – food focussed of course (what else!).

Fuschia Dunlop – posts fascinating insights into China, its food, culture and people. Knows more about chinese food than the average chinese person!

Gourmet Farmer – follows Matt Evan’s journey to becoming a self sufficient farmer, filming his joys and pitfalls of living in clean and green Tassie. Like a lot of people, he is living out my retirement dream (retirement is oh so far, far, far away for me!). The best bit about the series is the emphasis on local produce. He even kills his own chickens – sometimes it’s confronting but definitely worth watching. Whole episodes can be viewed online after airing (no breaks – yay) and the blog gives insight into life on the farm.

Epicurious Cake Baking Primer – a complete guide to cake baking – types of cakes, techniques and chemistry. There’s a bread primer too.

Everton Online – online kitchenware shop with good prices. Even better than regular outlets (Kitchenware Direct, Myer etc). Le Chasseur dutch oven, come to mama!

Ethicurean ‘There Be Dragons – always thought farming fish was an eco-friendly idea? I did, until I read these articles and realised the majority of farmed fish are fed fish meal produced from wild caught fish stock. Almost one third of ALL wild fish caught GLOBALLY is rendered into fish meal and oil. Fish farming is not so straightforward as it was marketed to be. (Note: be wary of farmed prawns – there’s a reason why they are cheaper – and don’t buy nannygai or orange roughy!).

Alright, that’s it for now… refraining from revealing the extent of my scarily large online reading. I read so much on the web that I hardly have time to blog. That’s my excuse anyway.

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07
Feb 10

High Tea at The Grill – Perth, WA

Spoilt for choice, three layers of goodness.

I’m late. Again. Always late to high teas as if it’s a tradition, but really, punctuality is not my strong point. I should really put in down as a New Year’s resolution – but we already have one in place. To try as many high teas in 2010 as possible!

Over enthusiastic – we are the first ones to arrive at The Grill. Tea strainers poised over teacups and glasses of chilled water have already been set out over stiffly pressed tablecloths. Glancing around at the set tables, portions of jam and cream and aproned waiters, this is an old school high tea with all the bells and whistles – and we like it! Even from the outset, it appeared some (probably most) high tea places in Perth could afford to learn a few lessons from The Duxton.

We were attended to very well – the tea menu was explained concisely and soon after, two large pots of hot tea were served and strained into our tea cups. Our lone table was soon joined by the other reserved tables, with flutes of champagne (topped with tiny strawberries) being served. 

Our high tea set arrives gracefully. Three tiers filled with pastries, sweets and sandwiches – one glance and we know this is going to be one of the best high teas in Perth! A high tea should have a wow factor and this one has it.

The first tier is filled with the traditional sandwiches with delectable ingredients – ham, brie and baby spinach; goats cheese, basil and cherry tomato on a baguette slice; smoked salmon and spinach on rye; and eggs,  mayonaise and cucumber sandwiched with pumpkin seed bread. All the sandwiches were tasty, well made and fortunately not dry (which is surprisingly commonplace).

The second tier is my favourite – sweets! I usually munch on the savoury sandwiches until I can not resist the lure of sugar. The dainty spoon of syrupy diced soft fruit (kiwi and strawberries) topped with a tiny blonde wig of pashmak (turkish fairy floss) is delicious and melts into the sugar syrup. If this sweet was any larger we’d probably go into a sugar coma but it is really good for one mouthful.

We are pleasantly surprised with the strawberry tartlet – it is filled with the most excellent custard – silky, soft and airy. The pastry is short, buttery and crumbly and the tart was definitely freshly assembled (ever had the experience of eating a stale tart… hard, rocky and tasteless!). I could swallow it whole but instead, slowly savoured it. It was that good. The chocolate tart is not like others we have had – again the pastry chef has done an excellent job. Initially I try to break apart the small tart with a fork but the chocolate filling is a barely set lava of dark chocolate. Delicious and rich. With a quill of white chocolate, this petit four is also slowly savoured.

The often forgotten scone is a good gauge of a high tea. If there is no scone, well, that tells you a lot about the high tea you are being served (sacrilegious!). Fresh scones are part and parcel of a traditional high tea and here they have not forgotten it. The scones are freshly baked and are still warm as we slather cream, jam and butter over the raisin studded dough. 

There is one item left on the top tier – a little hummingbird cake. I am too full. Still, out of greed I swipe a bit of the buttery frosting and Jess assures me the cake is good – but neither of us can scoff it down! So rare is a high tea where we leave absolutely satisfied. The service here is faultless, we hardly notice our teapots being refilled and the table is cleared shortly after we have finished eating.

The high tea at The Grill is by far, the best I’ve had in Perth (so far). For $28 per head ($38 with a glass of Chandon) it is well priced. They get another thumbs up from me (the traditionalist) for sticking to the proper time for which high tea is served – 2pm till 5pm. Ladies, if you are looking for lounge like atmosphere, white china and a nicely excessive high tea with bottomless cups of tea, I believe this is the place for you.

The only time I did not forget to strain the tea…

Up’s: Almost everything – from the friendly and efficient waiters, to the loose leaf tea, everything was good. We walked out of there smiling.

Down’s: The Grill looks a bit old but this is Perth and on that scale, nothing to complain about!

Food: 4.5/5
Value: 5/5
Service: 5/5
Atmosphere: 4/5


The Grill, Duxton Hotel, 1 St Georges Terrace, Perth WA 6000
T: (08) 9261 8025
W:
http://www.duxton.com 

High Tea is available 7 days 2pm – 5pm 


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Duxton Grill on Urbanspoon

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04
Feb 10

Cantina 663 – Mt Lawley, WA

Following the great breakfast we had at Cantina, I immediately jumped at the chance to make a booking after the Christmas break, thinking dinner would be equally as good. Alas, it was not meant to be. I’m going to keep this one brief, because for once I guess I don’t have much to say.

The menu at first glance is quite delightful – heavy on the starters and short on the mains, the menu cleverly caters for all tastes. Starters of cans of ortiz anchovies with bread; lamb shoulder terrine and chargrilled squid all sound equally attractive. In hindsight we should have had a meal of many starters, instead of the usual duo of a starter and a main.

Just like at breakfast – the service is excellent. Water was immediately served and the waiters were really helpful and genuinely friendly.

Lamb shoulder terrine with lentil salad and gilled bread; warm olives in oil.

The starters were tasty – the lamb shoulder terrine was gelatinous and spread like soft butter on the grilled bread. Well executed and original, the robust texture of the lamb was complemented by the earthy lentils. The olives were an assortment of colours, big and small, and arrived doused in warm fragrant oil. The marinated oil is scented with herbs and the bread was a luscious sponge for it. The olives were juicy, tender and more-ish. The olives were salty, but it’s a good excuse to have a drink. The bellinis here are presented quite beautifully. Instead of leaving peach nectar to sink to the bottom of the glass, the puree is spread around the flute and frozen, melting as the sparkling wine is consumed, allowing the fragrant peach aroma to permeate each sip.

Okay so now for the anticlimax. The mains. For the cost of each of the mains, I guess we expected better. The bf’s red bream was unexpectedly sitting on a cold seafood broth. It wasn’t unexpected as in good – but a strange juxtaposition of robust flavours, chunks of cold seafood and soup. The bream hovering on top, was barely warm. The dish did not work.

My pork belly confit was okay. The slab of pork was soft but a little stringy. The crackling was beautifully done – a snappy crispy wafer thin layer of golden crackling. The cabbage slaw on the side was far too sour and there was far too much of it. Each bite of pork and cabbage was dominated by the extreme cringe of vinegar. I quickly learned to accompany each bit of pork with only a few strands of cabbage to save my taste buds from acidic assault. The whole dish was uninspiring – the pork confit did not have a discernible marinade or spice rubbed onto it making it bland. Maybe the pork belly was meant to be a blank canvas for the cabbage. Unfortunately the cabbage was far too sour to complement it, let alone elevate the dish.

However the coffee is still up to scratch! I insisted on the bf trying the Fiori coffee  and I am glad to say, it is consistently good.

I would recommend sticking with breakfast, lunch or coffee at Cantina. If a dinner is really necessary, from our experience, I’d try a meal of starters instead of the mains. They have a nice wine list with cocktails, which would combine nicely with tapas style dining. Our meal cost about $110 for one entree, olives, a soft drink, one cocktail, two mains and a coffee.


Up’s: Breakfast is pretty good – see here. The coffee is really good and so is the service. The rustic interior makes it one of the more interesting places to eat on the Beaufort strip.

Down’s: Mains at dinner are uninspiring and over priced, I’m still hoping we ordered the ‘wrong’ things!

Food: 3/5 - including the good breakfast menu and brilliant coffee
Value: 3/5
Service: 4/5
Atmosphere: 4/5


Cantina 663, 663 Beaufort Street, Mt Lawley WA 6050
T: (08) 9370 4883
W: http://www.cantina663.com/

Opening Hours:
Breakfast 7 days 8 – 11.30am
Lunch 7 days noon – 3pm
Dinner Mon – Sat 6 – late

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Cantina 663 on Urbanspoon

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02
Feb 10

Australia Day 2010

A quiet day – a picnic by the river with homemade cinnamon scrolls, pigs in blankets (cutest name ever!) and fresh peaches.

I tried to make lamingtons for Australia Day but due to my impatience they failed very miserably. So the closest I could offer are these very British ‘pigs in blankets’ – little frankfurts wrapped in a cheese scone pastry. Very easy and tasty – the recipe is after the jump.

Hope everyone had a fantastic Australia Day!

(I’m already eagerly awaiting the next public holiday…)

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» Pigs in Blankets recipe…

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31
Jan 10

Market City Wholesale Markets
- Canning Vale, WA

So I smell like fish, and look like one too, being coverd in scales to the elbow. It’s the aftermath of a crazy morning at the Central Trading Area of Market City. 7am (or earlier) is a hideous time to wake up on a weekend, but supposedly the early bird gets the worm so we reluctantly haul ourselves out of bed to see what the markets have to offer. Normally the wholesale markets are closed to the public but on Saturdays two areas of the market are open to the public – the wholesale produce warehouse and the meat and fish area.

A word of warning – the people who come here for fruit and veggies are highly enthusiastic. Actually, enthusiastic would be an overstatement…they are crazy!! As each wholesaler lifts his gate, the waiting hordes madly rush through – bags flying, elbows shoving and eyes keenly searching out for the best produce. The scenes are reminiscent of Boxing Day sales, I kid you not!

Mangoes galore! Each box $15 each! “Do not chop the mangies up!!”

These are clearance markets – selling the surplus and reject stock from the trading week. Therefore the produce tends to be of inferior grade and are bought by the box or large pre-packed bags – resulting in ridiculously cheap prices. By this I mean a box of mangoes sells for $15 but will most likely contain some over ripe and spotty fruits. With this in mind, scrupulous (or shameless) customers will swap mangoes from box to box, discarding the blemished fruits – causing the stall owner to shout and repeat ‘DO NOT chop the mangoes up!! Do not chop the mangoes UP!!??’.

As expected, the produce is hit and miss, some of it was passable, a lot of it wilted and no doubt had been picked through. No matter how cheap it was, the bargain glutton in me knew there was no way we would get through a crate of yellow zucchinis. Though I did get a big box of portobello mushrooms (about 4kg – did someone say stroganoff?) for $10. Bargain.

We surrender the produce section to the over zealous and grinning families and head to the teeming fish market. Inhaling the slight stench of fish, we walk through the turnstiles and did what the romans did – grab a pair of gloves, a fistful of plastic bags and join the crowd!

I have never seen a fish market like this in Perth! It’s wet, crowded and fish is constantly streaming in. The fish is exceptionally fresh and exceptionally cheap. Local squid, with gleaming vibrant purple speckled skin, are around $10 a kilo. Shiny boot black local mussels are a shop wide hit at $2.90 a kilo (when was the last time you saw mussels for less than $3 per kg?!). Whole snapper is less than $10 a kilo. Fresh jumbo sized prawns are $14 a kilo. We put on our gloves and dive right in with the middle aged mums and dads, sorting through the clear eyed and slippery fish! If you like fresh lobster and yabbies, this is THE place to get them. No sedate, on-the-verge-of-death yabbies here – they were so lively that fascinated customers were racing them. Just caught, angrily flapping lobsters can be bought for $16 each.

Crab linguine, please.

The result of a lot of scaling and a haphazard, first time attempt at filleting.

The fish market also stocks frozen foods which seem to be very popular. I walked out of there with a whole salmon, a kilo of whole squid and 4 big blue manna crabs for $60.

Next door (yes there’s more!) is a butcher. With exception to the cling wrapped carcasses, the meat is sold in bulk vacuum packs. With stroganoff on the mind I picked up a huge piece of gravy beef (to me it was huge, but it was the smallest one available… this is wholesale after all) for $3.50 a kilo. I saw some t-bone steaks for $10 a kilo but had to restrain myself due to freezer space.

I would probably go back to the markets for fish and meat. The low grade produce is not my thing and being that early in the morning, I’m not enthusiastic enough to elbow my way through for some chinese cabbage or a box of mangoes! My advice is to wake up early for these markets – especially if you are keen to buy fruit and vegetables (er… bring your running shoes!). Also, fold up trolley is handy for holding boxes of fruit – the produce section is heaven for jam and pickle makers, although some dedication and tolerance to bad fruit is required. For the fish market, bring covered shoes as the floor is wet. Some customers brought sturdy buckets to hold their catches which is a fabulous idea. Keep in mind that a fee is charged for gutting and scaling fish.


Market City, 280 Bannister Road, Canning Vale WA 6155

The fruit and vege markets are open from 7.30am – 9.30am every Saturday in the Central Trading Area. The fish markets are open from 6am – 10am every Saturday. The entrance to ample parking is off Bannister Road – look for the long queue of cars waiting to get through the boom gates. It’s a $2 per car entry fee (goes to Rotary).The produce and fish markets are cash transactions only. 


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p.s. I think I’ve been shopping in sterile supermarkets for too long, I found myself getting slightly squeamish when we headed to the butchers. I daren’t look at the giant yellow trolleys, I think they had spines or something in them. My companion told me not to look in!

p.p.s. The mushrooms on closer inspection were a little iffy. I’m thinking someone had gone through the box of mushrooms and sorted out the good from the bad and needless to say, my box seemed to bear the brunt of it (read: slightly blemished, oxidised and sometimes slimey!). However, it was still a bargain. Even though I threw out half the box (which can still be eaten if you diligently peel them) I came out with about 3 kilos of mushies for the said stroganoff.


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